Thursday, September 11, 2003: Hello from Chile Had a great day today. Surfed with Penguins and sea lions in 6 to 8' surf at punta de lobos. Cold but beautiful! Northern California style except with cactus on the cliffs. Did I mention the fantastic wine? I«m helping a guy from Oregon do translation for some prospective land options he has going on. Land is still very reasonable here. Waves are continuing to build. This place breaks like Ulu Watu but without the Bali crowd or warm water. It's amazing how good things seem to be when the waves are good. Hope this was a safe 9/11 for everyone.
Till next update...Cheers and chow as they say down here. Lots of video and photos to share.
Monday, September 15, 2003: I can only say that there is nothing like going somewhere for the first time and falling into perfect surfing spots accidently. Unreal set ups with no crowds and good wine and good vibes. There are some well known spots and some very unkown ones as well. My recon missions and missed turns on remote dirt roads in areas rural at best have proven very fruitful. Subsequent trips are definitely required to really soak it all in. Cheers...Oh ya it's the eve of there independance day and people are going to be raging for a week hence. It's well under way!
Saturday, September 20, 2003: I'm in J-bay finally. Left Cape town at 4 in the avo and got here around 1:30 and surfed perfect reeling head high plus waves. I guess yesterday was the day. The swell is backing down so I'm gonna check some animals out. I drove down with a kiwi guy I met in the Cape town surf shop. Picked up this guy hitch hiking and he was armed to the teeth but fortunately he was a cool guy. Some gnarly mercinary who works for the sas special airfoce service and has full diplomatic immunity. Total one man rambo dude.Reminded me of this guy I know named Lairbo back home Ha...
Adios amigos....
Monday, September 22, 2003: J-Bay is small now unless your on a longboard. So we went up to Cape St. Francis and scored some fun peeling head high surf on the sets with the reef running all the way down it as well.
Did the African animal thing yesterday and drove to a pretty remote reserve to view them and was glad I didn't get the car stuck in the wrong spot. I think the elephants were all in the good mood with plenty to eat and drink. Monkeys, Zebras, ostrich, giant tortoise and grasshoppers big enough to eat. Birds I can't even begin to describe so hopefully my digital film and snap shots come out.
I'm heading back to Cape town where the surf is still up and Hopefully make a dash up the west coast to a place called Elaands Bay. I'll check in when I get back to Cape Town. As they say in SA, THE SURF IS ABSOLUTLY COOKIN!
Adios
Tuesday, September 23, 2003: Some shots my bros in Chile just sent me of the swell I just missed. I've literally been on the in betweens of epic swells on both South America and South Africa. Not complaining as the surfs I've had have been great but we like that big epic stuff don't we. I mean that's what we go for anyways. The cultures are a reward in itself as is the jouney; but epic surf just makes it that much sweeter when you nail it firing!
The incentive to travel never seems to fade if your a surfer.
Well found out today my duffel bag decided to stay in Buenos Aires without me.
Well one more shot at surfing here in Cape town and another night out with my new friends. Then it's off to Mauritius and Reunion for 5 days.
Adios
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